In May,2008I went to Mompox for the second time. It was a lot simpler arriving than I remember from the time I
went in 2001. Mompox is a town of huge significance to Colombia and northern South America. As the statue on
the left proclaims, 'if to Caracas i owe my life, then to Mompox I owe my glory'... Simon Bolivar arrived in Mompox
in 1812 and recruited four hundred men out of the towns population of 2,000 people and rode to glory in
Caracas. He returned several times over the next twenty years. The Mompox of today, the centre at least, has
changed little over the last two hundred years. Every Semana Santa thousands arrive to participate in the
religious processions. There is also a great deal of cattle raising going on around Mompox. The main industry
though seems to be tourism and ensuring that the town changes very little, thereby protecting its image.
went in 2001. Mompox is a town of huge significance to Colombia and northern South America. As the statue on
the left proclaims, 'if to Caracas i owe my life, then to Mompox I owe my glory'... Simon Bolivar arrived in Mompox
in 1812 and recruited four hundred men out of the towns population of 2,000 people and rode to glory in
Caracas. He returned several times over the next twenty years. The Mompox of today, the centre at least, has
changed little over the last two hundred years. Every Semana Santa thousands arrive to participate in the
religious processions. There is also a great deal of cattle raising going on around Mompox. The main industry
though seems to be tourism and ensuring that the town changes very little, thereby protecting its image.
Either because they don't know about the place or they think it's too far away, very very few tourists visit Mompox. It
could even be that less than five backpackers a week make the effort. Pretty sad.
Its actually not that hard to get to Mompox, it is getting easier at least. The first step is to get to Magangue, on the bank
of the river Magdalena.
from Baranquilla to Magangue : you need to go to Magangue(gateway to Mompox). Its a four hour bus trip. The cost will
be between 20.000 and 24.000 pesos. There are a couple of companies doing the route. There could also be taxi
colectivos as below which will make the trip faster.
from Cartagena to Magangue : there are buses also, a couple a day. It's a six hour trip, including the ferry ride. a better
option (one way at least) is to take a colectivo taxi which should cost 33.000 pesos and take three hours. There will be
taxis leaving from Cartagena to Magangue and vice versa every half an hour or so at least I would say.
from Magangue to Bodegas : there are colectivo fast boats leaving from the wharf (pier), whenevr they are full (should
not have to wait more than half an hour). It costs 6.000 pesos for the ride which takes less than thirty minutes. The
second option is the car/truck ferry which should cost about 2.000 or so and takes eighty minutes. The bus goes on this
ferry. NOTE : (do not leave after six in the evening or so)
from Bodegas to Mompox : There are taxi colectivos leaving whenever full, should be often for the cost of 7.000 pesos
to Mompox. A forty minute or so ride. Or you can take a motorbike for around 10.000 pesos
-so now you know. its pretty easy to do the whole lot. personally i would taxi in then get the colectivo taxi then boat and
take the direct bus back. so you experience both options.
could even be that less than five backpackers a week make the effort. Pretty sad.
Its actually not that hard to get to Mompox, it is getting easier at least. The first step is to get to Magangue, on the bank
of the river Magdalena.
from Baranquilla to Magangue : you need to go to Magangue(gateway to Mompox). Its a four hour bus trip. The cost will
be between 20.000 and 24.000 pesos. There are a couple of companies doing the route. There could also be taxi
colectivos as below which will make the trip faster.
from Cartagena to Magangue : there are buses also, a couple a day. It's a six hour trip, including the ferry ride. a better
option (one way at least) is to take a colectivo taxi which should cost 33.000 pesos and take three hours. There will be
taxis leaving from Cartagena to Magangue and vice versa every half an hour or so at least I would say.
from Magangue to Bodegas : there are colectivo fast boats leaving from the wharf (pier), whenevr they are full (should
not have to wait more than half an hour). It costs 6.000 pesos for the ride which takes less than thirty minutes. The
second option is the car/truck ferry which should cost about 2.000 or so and takes eighty minutes. The bus goes on this
ferry. NOTE : (do not leave after six in the evening or so)
from Bodegas to Mompox : There are taxi colectivos leaving whenever full, should be often for the cost of 7.000 pesos
to Mompox. A forty minute or so ride. Or you can take a motorbike for around 10.000 pesos
-so now you know. its pretty easy to do the whole lot. personally i would taxi in then get the colectivo taxi then boat and
take the direct bus back. so you experience both options.
Where to Stay
Arriving in Mompox there are several options on accommodation. You will never have a problem finding a place to stay unless you arrive during
Semana Santa when the town goes crazy religious and loads flock there or during the Christmas holidays.
Arriving in Mompox there are several options on accommodation. You will never have a problem finding a place to stay unless you arrive during
Semana Santa when the town goes crazy religious and loads flock there or during the Christmas holidays.
What to do in Mompox
Las Vegas, Mompox is not. Its a living museum. Its a place to wander around enjoy the surroundings
and soak up the culture. The people are very friendly and all in all its pretty cheap. There are some
nice bars to hang out in along the river. You can hire motor taxis and also guides that can show you
more about the town and take you to places you would otherwise not have found. The cemetery
believe it or not is one of the places Mompox is most famous for. Its worth a visit and you can admire
the century old headstones. During Semana Santa there are big festivals and processions in
Mompox. Accommodation will be almost impossible to find also.
Las Vegas, Mompox is not. Its a living museum. Its a place to wander around enjoy the surroundings
and soak up the culture. The people are very friendly and all in all its pretty cheap. There are some
nice bars to hang out in along the river. You can hire motor taxis and also guides that can show you
more about the town and take you to places you would otherwise not have found. The cemetery
believe it or not is one of the places Mompox is most famous for. Its worth a visit and you can admire
the century old headstones. During Semana Santa there are big festivals and processions in
Mompox. Accommodation will be almost impossible to find also.
It is possible to enter many of the old houses and view the beautiful courtyards. you can also enter the church of santa barbara (on the right) if it
is open and go up to the balcony and have a great view of the town and river. I also visited the old peoples home. That was pretty interesting.
is open and go up to the balcony and have a great view of the town and river. I also visited the old peoples home. That was pretty interesting.
There are loads of
pineapples for sale.
mompox is also a good
place to buy
hammocks and hats.
there is a little market
alongside the river
pineapples for sale.
mompox is also a good
place to buy
hammocks and hats.
there is a little market
alongside the river
The Spanish arrived in Mompox over two hundred years ago when the town was a very important port. They brought with them wines, pianos etc.
One of the best bars around right on the river, candles and all. Called Luna de Mompox Unfortunately
having gone to Mompox alone I had to rent a friend, Alfonson. He wasn't bad company.
having gone to Mompox alone I had to rent a friend, Alfonson. He wasn't bad company.
Mompox, while not the place to get down and party, is however
blessed with one very well located bar right on the river, called
Luna de Mompox(below). It's a great place to pass a few hours
knocking back a couple of Aguilas. The ambiente of the place is
second to none. A beer there will not set you back more than
2000 pesos. The place is a bit quiet during the week. There are
also one or two discos in the town but not much happening
there during the week. Further along the river are a couple of
little bars also where you can drink cheap and play dominos with
the locals and watch the world go by. Very very peaceful
blessed with one very well located bar right on the river, called
Luna de Mompox(below). It's a great place to pass a few hours
knocking back a couple of Aguilas. The ambiente of the place is
second to none. A beer there will not set you back more than
2000 pesos. The place is a bit quiet during the week. There are
also one or two discos in the town but not much happening
there during the week. Further along the river are a couple of
little bars also where you can drink cheap and play dominos with
the locals and watch the world go by. Very very peaceful
Hotel La Casona. Its only a block from the main plaza and is a nice old colonial style house. It costs 30.000 per person in a nice simple room
with attached bathroom and television.
The direction is Carrera 2A No. 18-58 Tel 095-6855307
with attached bathroom and television.
The direction is Carrera 2A No. 18-58 Tel 095-6855307
Another bar has also opened up next door playing different music. Nice also but
no competition to La Luna.
no competition to La Luna.
The animals in Mompox do
even less than the people if
that is possible.
even less than the people if
that is possible.
If you want to buy a rocking chair then you've come to
the right place. They make a lot them here and use more
the right place. They make a lot them here and use more
| Mompox |
Getting there and away
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La Casa Amarilla. I would recommend backpackers stay in the newly opened Casa Amarilla, opened by Richard McColl. Its one of the original
buildings in town and its being remodelled and looking great. The owner and his girlfriends family and very nice and knowledgeable about the
town. Its also in a great location right by the river and dorms are 15.000 pesos per night.
The direction is Carrera 1 #13-59
buildings in town and its being remodelled and looking great. The owner and his girlfriends family and very nice and knowledgeable about the
town. Its also in a great location right by the river and dorms are 15.000 pesos per night.
The direction is Carrera 1 #13-59
Dona Manuela. the most expensive option at 90.000 pesos for one and 120.000 pesos for two this is a very nice hotel in a four hundred year
old Spanish colonial building with pool. If you want to splash out this is the nicest place in town. Even if not staying there go in to check out the
building its real nice. You can also use the pool there if you want for 6.000 pesos
old Spanish colonial building with pool. If you want to splash out this is the nicest place in town. Even if not staying there go in to check out the
building its real nice. You can also use the pool there if you want for 6.000 pesos
Mompos is famous for it
gold and silver
jewellery. I bought a
nice piece for the
misses on the last trip.
Silver earings, 25.000p
gold and silver
jewellery. I bought a
nice piece for the
misses on the last trip.
Silver earings, 25.000p
The street by the
river is beautiful
for a stroll.
Tree-lined with
the oldest houses
in the town
river is beautiful
for a stroll.
Tree-lined with
the oldest houses
in the town
The cemetery is
one of the best
looking around.
Lots of cats there
as well if thats
your thing.
one of the best
looking around.
Lots of cats there
as well if thats
your thing.
Where to Eat
Restaurante y Residencias Dona Edith on Carrera 2 does a very good cheap lunch for only 4.000 pesos. Further down the road you can get a
good steak or chicken on the bbq at Restaurant Patio Bonito for only 6.000 pesos. Alternatively eat down by the waterfront market.
good steak or chicken on the bbq at Restaurant Patio Bonito for only 6.000 pesos. Alternatively eat down by the waterfront market.
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